The following content may contain affiliate links. When you click and shop the links, we receive a commission.
Over the last few years, as our family has grown, I’ve found so much joy in reviving vintage furniture to use for our little ones’ bedrooms. It’s a quick way to add a bit of whimsyh without being horribly expensive or difficult. My hobby has slowly evolved to incorporate pieces throughout our home and everyone in our house knows I’m always on the hunt for something new.
I remember starting a mood board for my daughter’s nursery several years ago and included in it was a beautiful peach refinished Dorothy Draper bunching chest. I ended up picking up a dreamy French-inspired dresser for her that I painted an understated shade of white but always had that dresser in the back of my mind. Fast forward two years later and I was up late one night nursing our week-old baby boy. I was scrolling through Craigslist searching for the word “dresser” and low and behold, there she was.. although hardly recognizable as the dresser had been repainted a green of sorts. Clearly, the current owner did not know this was a classic piece, or its worth, as it was listed for $250 with just the description “vintage dresser”. I immediately messaged the owner and was at his doorstep the next morning before a line of people noticed the listing (thanks to that late-night feeding). So many people ask me what keywords I use to find some of the pieces I’ve refinished and, to be honest, sometimes it’s just a bit of luck that lands you on the right listing. Often times people don’t know what they have and just use simple keywords (i.e. “dresser” for a Dorothy Draper bunching chest that can be listed for thousands depending on the condition!) to describe something that might actually be quite fabulous.. and these are usually the best finds as they are significantly under priced.
The dresser spent years in our son’s nursery and eventually made its way to our master bedroom as I acquired more pieces over the years. I was always hesitant to refinish it but finally gained the confidence after working on several pieces over the last two years.
You know I love a dramatic before and after… and this one does not disappoint.
Here’s what I recommend having on hand before you tackle your own furniture glow up:
- Orbit Sander
- Orbit Sander Paper
- Mouse Sander
- Mouse Sander Paper
- Flexible Sanding Pads or blocks (makes sanding curved edges easy breezy)
- Blue Painters Tape
- (splurge on the higher quality tape, it makes the job easier and cleaner)
- Paint Sprayer
- I love this one at $106. Such a good price point and gets the job done! And done fast!
- Tack cloth (I love to buy these in bulk as I’ll use a few on one project!)
- Paintbrush (I prefer a 2″ slanted edge for tight spaces)
- Roller
- Foam rollers
- Sandpaper (Assorted grits)
- Extension cord (nothing is more frustrating than getting everything set up and realizing your cord won’t reach!)
- Brasso, hello shine!
- Krud Kutter to remove all the gunk that’s built up on your hardware over the years
- Gold Spray Paint for hardware (friendly PSA, not all gold spray paint is created equal… there are SO many shades & I’m sharing my favorite)
Here’s my general process. Keep in mind it usually takes two to three days from start to finish so I like to plan accordingly… especially with little kids running around!
- Remove drawers & hardware. Store hardware in a baggie until its ready to be cleaned. Vintage hardware is difficult to replace so you don’t want any pieces to walk away!
- I typically soak the hardware in Krud Kutter overnight. It helps to remove any old paint and grime and makes it easier to either polish or paint over. Once removed, I’ll brush away any remaining paint with a steel wool pad.
- Sand all surfaces of the dresser. You can use the orbital sander for flat surfaces and the mouse works great for tight corners. I’ll use sand paper on harder to reach areas and a foam sander for rounded corners & bamboo. I typically start with a medium grit (220) and will go up to a fine paper (400) when sanding after painting the primer and first coat.
- Wipe clean and rub the surface with a tack cloth to remove small particles
- Roll or spray-on primer if necessary. This is really helpful on areas where the paint might not adhere very well or if you’re painting a light color on a darker surface. Sometimes primer isn’t necessary, it just depends on the paint you use and what you’re painting.
- Use a fine sandpaper and give a quick go over to smooth any bumps.
- Prep spray gun or tray for rolling. I really enjoying using the spray gun as it makes projects go so much faster. However the paint does get everywhere so I typically paint in our driveway and lay down plenty of cardboard or a drop cloth. A big grassy backyard would be great for this too! I typically throw on a pair of sunglasses that wind up with paint on them and one of my KN95 masks that we all have lying around these days.
- Apply the first coat with either sprayer or brush & roller. This is really dependent on what you’re painting, what kind of work space you have. I’ve used both. In regards to the type of paint, I typically use Benjamin Moore Advanced in a semi-gloss or gloss OR Benjamin Moore Scuff-X in the semi gloss. I think its inevitable that the pieces will scratch over time so I keep a small jar of paint to use for touch ups.
- Let the first coat dry for the recommended time.
- Sand after the first coat with a fine grit paper (400 or so).
- Apply a second coat the same way as the first and let it dry thoroughly. It’s always tempting to move it right away but give it some time to dry and let any lingering fumes dissipate.
- I think it’s really helpful to leave plenty of time for the paint to cure before styling your piece (4-5 days). This will prevent scuffs and scratches early on.
- After you’ve cleaned the hardware, you can polish it with Brasso if it’s brass or give it a coat of primer, paint of choice (I typically like this gold one) and then coat with a spray gloss to prevent tarnishing. Once dry, pop the hardware on and drawers in and you’re good to go!
- A few of you have asked what to do if the piece has a laminate top. Here’s a great example where you definitely want to sand it down and prime it. This will help the paint in adhering and making the piece look cohesive.
Let me know if you have any questions in the comments! I can not wait to see what amazing pieces you restore!
xx Mary